Candle Troubleshooting – Crafter's Community (2024)

Candle Troubleshooting Tips

Wet Spots: Shrinkage & air bubbles that occur as the wax is cooling in container causing thewax to pull away from the glassware. Possible Causes:Humidity, raising or lowering the pour temp, environmental temperatures, pouring too quickly, cooling candles are placed too close together & hold heat unevenly. Possible Solutions:Pre-heat your glassware prior to pouring, pour wax very slowlyinto container, tap theglassware gently afterpouring to release any airbubbles, a room temp of 70-72° is best when pouring, placefreshly poured candles about 4″ apart when cooling to avoid extra heat being held in onsides.

Candle wax is not burningevenly all of the waydown: Possible Causes: Wick may not be centered, wick may be too small, your wax may be too hard (too high of a melt point). Candle may be in a draft, under a fan, near a vent. Possible Solutions: Use a device to help center wick such as wick bar, or other centering tool.Try using a softer, lower melt point wax or try using a larger wick. It is very important to choose the right size wick for the diameter of each container you use. Keep away from drafts.

Tunneling:Candle has “tunneling” effect (leaving wax on the
sides of container candles. Possible Causes:Wick size is not large enough for your wax, container, fragrance, dye combination.Dark or highly-fragranced candles often need a larger wick. Possible Solutions:You may need to go up one or two sizes in the wick series you are using. If you have a container with varying widths,measure the widest & narrowest & use an average for the
diameter.

Mushrooming:Candle wick is “mushrooming” or has a carbon buildup at the end of the wick. Possible Causes:Wick is too large for the container, wick has not been properly trimmed, using a higher amount of fragrance oil in your candles may cause a “fragrance mushroom”. Possible Solutions:Try using a smaller wick for your container, burn candlesno longer than 2-3 hrs at a time without blowing out & trimming the wick to 1/4″.

Frosting:“White Frosting” in Soy.This is caused by tiny crystal growth that forms on the top & sides of the wax. It is a natural byproduct of a natural wax, it does not affect the burn & is very common. Possible Causes:Pouring wax too quickly into containers, pouring wax at too high of a temp, candles cooled too quickly (wax in container), wax blended/stirred too vigorously prior to pouring, environmental temperatures. Possible Solutions:Mix/stir wax slowly, preheat glassware in a warm oven to a max of 100°, pour your wax at a lower temp to help reduce the crystal formation, cool at room temperature & keep out of drafts, try making non-colored soy candles to make frosting less noticeable, elevate your candles on a wire rack for even cooling.

Fragrance leaching:Fragrance oil is “leaching” through top of candle. Excessive soot and/or smoking. Possible Cause: Overloading a wax with a higher fragrance percentage than recommended can cause oil to seep out or leach” as it is not able to hold it. Too much fragrance load can also lead to soot, smoking, wick drowning out. Possible Solutions:Reduce the amount of fragrance oil used. Always research & test your wax to find out how much fragrance oil it can retain.

Little or No Scent Throw: Scent is less than expected when candle is burning. Possible Causes:Too small amount of fragrance oil used,poor quality of fragrance oil, addingfragrance at too low or too high temperature, not letting your candles cure after pouring, type of wax used, improper wick or wick sizingissue. **Note: Recommended temp for adding FO is 185° to ensure that it binds & mixes completely with the melted wax. As soon as you remove the melted wax from the heat source, it will begin to cool. Adding FO also continues the cooling process. If you add FO when the wax has cooled below 180°, you risk the possibility of poor cold and/or hotthrow. Some internet bloggers recommend adding fragrance at or below its flash point. Flash point is the temperature at which the oil will ignite if introduced to a spark or flame. There is no safety concern whatsoever in adding fragrance at higher temperatures than the listed flash point.Possible Solutions:Add more fragrance, know the minimum & maximum percentages that are recommended for your wax, use high-quality fragrances, try & test different waxes (paraffin is well-known for it’s excellent scent throw, try blending a little in if using soy), be sure to use oils designed for candle-making, always make sure tohave properly sized wicks for each container you use to ensure a great melt pool, let your candles cure before testburning (24 hrs minimum, 1-2 weeks recommended.)

Unstable or Large Flame: Candle flame is too high, wick is flickering continuously & jumping. Possible Causes:Wick is too large for your container. Wick needs to be trimmed. Possible Solutions:Always measure & test your wicks to ensure they are the correct size for the diameter of your container, keep wicks properly trimmed at 1/8 to 1/4 inches before burning & afterlong periods of burning (2-3 hours).

Wick Extinguishing: Candle wick is drowning out, won’t stay lit. Possible Causes:Too heavy use of additives (fragrance oil,dye, etc.), wick is too small for container. Possible Solutions:Use the right size wick for your container, always use proper amount of additives (know the minimum & maximum that your wax will allow.

Rough Surfaces/Cracking:Candles have an uneven, rough surface or small air bubbles which lead to small holes, cracking, and/or jump lines. Possible Causes:Stirring too vigorously, water somehow gotinto the wax, your candles cooled too fast, candles were poured at too cool of a temp. Possible Solutions:Avoid over-stirring, pour at a slightly hotter (+5 degrees) temperature, avoid water or moisture getting into your solid, flake & melted wax, heat your containers to 90-100° in awarm oven, pour more slowly, use a heat gun on low for any imperfections (you can also use it to preheat or warm your containers before pouring), cool your candles at room temp (avoid extremely hot or cold rooms). **Note: One overlooked source of moisture is humidity. If you reside in a humid area and have a recurring issue with this, consider storing your wax in a room with a dehumidifier.

Odd Scent: Candles have a “fuel-burning” type smell. Possible Cause:Wick is either too large or too small,candles have not cured long enough,“citrus” and/or “mint” fragrance notes seem to be the most common issues for some candle makers, too heavy fragrance load. Possible Solutions:Try either going down or up a wick size with these certainfragrance oils, let candles cure for a minimum of 24 hrs;1 week is usually best,try a smaller percentage load of fragrance oil, some candle-makers feel that adding a very small amount of a ‘creamy vanilla” type fragrance oil helps to eliminate this problem.

**Disclaimer: We have taken every effort to ensure that this guide is as accurate as possible. Community Candle Supply is providing this information to be used a guide only & this does not substitute for proper testing & experimentation. We cannot guarantee or take responsibility for any errors or omissions in this guide. We are also not responsible for any actions or outcomes that are a consequence of using the above information. Thank you for your understanding!

Candle Troubleshooting – Crafter's Community (2024)

FAQs

Candle Troubleshooting – Crafter's Community? ›

Candle wax is not burning evenly all of the way down: Possible Causes: Wick may not be centered, wick may be too small, your wax may be too hard (too high of a melt point). Candle may be in a draft, under a fan, near a vent. Possible Solutions: Use a device to help center wick such as wick bar, or other centering tool.

Why is my candle not working? ›

This often happens if your candle has tunneled and the wick has burned below the surface of most the wax. The wax is melting down into the wick faster than the wick can burn it and the flame gets extinguished. Solution: Dab away or drain excess melted wax from the area around the wick to give it enough space to burn.

How do you reset a candle? ›

The first method requires an external heat source (a heat gun is ideal, but a hair dryer can also work) to melt the harden wax around the edges of the container. This "resets the memory" of the wax, so to speak, widening the melt pool that reaches all the way to the edges.

Can you microwave a candle to fix tunneling? ›

Set your oven to 80 Degrees Celsius or 175 Fahrenheit. Once hot, place your candle in the oven for 2 minutes. This will evenly melt the top of your candle and return it to its smooth, and even former glory! NOTE: Do not put your candles in a microwave oven!

Does a candle warmer fix tunneling? ›

Use a candle warmer: If you've already got a tunnelling candle, you can use a candle warmer to help melt the wax and redistribute it evenly across the surface of the candle. Simply place the candle on a warmer and let it melt until the wax has melted across the entire surface.

How to fix a candle that won't stay lit? ›

Sometimes, the candle burns hot and too quickly, resulting in a wax pool that can extinguish the flame. If this happens, try using a paper towel or napkin to soak up some of the excess wax. Then wait until the wax has solidified a little, relight your candle, and repeat until your wick has room to breathe.

Why is my candle not burning all the way down? ›

Incorrect wick size: A very common cause of tunnelling is the usage of a wick too small for the volume of wax or the width of your vessel. A wick which is too small may, despite its best efforts, not have enough power to burn the wax from edge to edge.

How to fix a short wick on a candle? ›

If the wick is too short even to light, melt a bit of the wax with a heat gun and pour it onto a paper plate. You can also scrape out room-temperature wax using a butter knife to expose the wick so you can light it.

Can you remelt a candle and fix it? ›

Whether you're at the end of a jarred candle, a pillar, or a taper, you can melt the remaining wax and use it in a variety of ways, from simply adding it to a candle warmer to making gift-worthy floral wax sachets or practical fire starters.

Why do my candles sink in the middle when I make them? ›

The more the centre shrinks after the outside has set, the larger the sinkhole will be. Another factor that can cause a sinkhole to form is when the wax around the edges and the wick set so quickly that air bubbles in the wax aren't able to naturally be released.

How do you stop a candle from cratering? ›

To avoid this unfortunately common issue, make sure you burn candles in warm and draft-free environments and trim your wicks to no longer than 1/4" with a candle wick trimmer before lighting them. Smaller flames burn more evenly and are less likely to cause tunneling.

Can you put a candle in the oven to fix tunneling? ›

Heat is the main variable that helps fix Candle Tunnelling. There are several heat techniques that you can use that don't involve heading out to buy foil. The most common techniques are using your oven or using a hairdryer to to create an even melt pool.

What to do with a candle when the wick is gone? ›

In the event that the wick is actually broken and impossible to use again, consider some DIY options so that you can continue using your candle as normal. Jones recommends using twine or even tightly rolled-up newspaper in place of the wick as makeshift alternatives.

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