Famous grass roofs —
Practical and ecological -- the grass roofs in the Faroe Islands, a remote archipelago halfway between Scotland and Iceland, are the most conspicuous element of the local architecture.
Durable houses —
Houses have been built like this for more than 1,000 years, providing protection from rain and thermal insulation. Though challenging to maintain (yes, they need to be mowed), in a place with 300 rainy days a year and average wind speeds exceeding 15 mph, that kind of weather-proofing is key.
Harbor in the capital —
This is the harbor in Torshavn, capital of the Faroe Islands, at 11 p.m. In summer the sun hardly sets and it never gets completely dark. Surprisingly, there's little nightlife in the city.
Oldest inhabited wooden house —
Tarred wooden staves have replaced the old stone walls, as seen on this farmhouse in Kirkjubour, one of the oldest inhabited wooden houses in the world. It dates to the 11th century and for nearly 500 years has belonged to the Patursson family.
Symbolic roofs —
The buildings have become symbols of the islands.
Government bulidings also have grass roofs —
In contrast with the usual splendor of government buildings, the administration of the Faroe Islands sits in a few small structures topped with grass. They're located on the Tinganes peninsula in the capital Torshavn where a local "ting" (assembly) has been gathering since the ninth century.
Sheep and goats are typical —
Sheep and goats are common intruders on the well maintained Faroese roads.
And churches too —
One of the most picturesque churches in the Faroes is in Saksun. Surrounded by waterfalls and overlooking a narrow fjord, this church was built in 1858 with, naturally, a roof made of the surrounding turf.
Grass keeps growing —
Edges of the grass roofs are formed from a vertical stave or a log hooked to the roof. Additional sealing can be made using birch bark. Grass is laid in prepared, cut pieces and keeps growing once on the roof.
Traditionalists —
Modern architecture can be found on the Faroe Islands, but many locals still opt for grass roofs.
The Nordic House —
The Nordic House, a national cultural center opened in 1983, also sports a grass roof. The custom of topping houses in such a way used to be common to the whole Scandinavia, but it survives to the largest extent in the Faroe Islands.
Challenging to maintain —
These sheds at the Leitisvatn lake were originally built by early Viking settlers.
Icelandic stopover —
In Torshavn harbor, a Smyril Line ship has just arrived from Denmark, bringing tourists for a three-day stopover on their way to Iceland.
Tough drives —
A narrow road from underneath Slættaratindur, the highest peak in the Faroe Islands, descends to Funningur in thrilling serpentine lanes.
Faroe Islands: Bleak, beautiful land of grass roofs
Story highlights
Faroe Islands have up to 300 rainy days a year, but the landscape gives them special appeal
Grass roofs in the Faroe Islands are the most conspicuous element of the local architecture
Many young Faroese leave to study abroad to escape the remoteness of home, but often return
CNN —
With up to 300 rainy days per year, the Faroe Islands aren’t set to become the next big summer vacation spot.
But the unscathed landscape, idiosyncratic architecture and a calming simplicity is attracting tourists more than ever.
Situated in the Gulf Stream in the North Atlantic, midway between Norway and Iceland, the 18 islands that make up the Faroes have 600 miles (965 kilometers) of roads and a population of sheep that significantly outnumbers the people.
Many arrive, just like I did, with a limited knowledge of this remote archipelago.
Travel guides mention the Faroe Islands only in passing.
But the islands, a territory of Denmark with a total area smaller than London and just 49,000 inhabitants (and 70,000 sheep), are becoming more than a refreshment stop for travelers on their way to Iceland.
As soon as I arrive, I meet Barour, an intern with the local tourist board.
Over one of the most expensive beers in my life ($10 for half a pint) in a hotel bar in the capital Torshavn, he briefs me on the local must-sees.
Tjornuvik is the northernmost village on the main island of Streymoy.
“From there, you’ll see where the Icelandic giants hurled a rope to tow the Faroes toward their island,” says Barour.
MORE: World’s most romantic islands
Mythological creation
According to local myth, creatures from Iceland were so jealous of the raw beauty of the Faroes that they wanted to have the islands for themselves.
It's bleak, but also soothing.
But two giants that swam during the night across the ocean struggled to move the islands.
When the sun rose, they turned to stone.
That’s how Risin and Kellingin (“The Giant” and “The Witch”), two sea stacks north of Eysturoy island, each about 230 feet (70 meters) tall, were created, the legend goes.
Despite the comparatively small size of the Faroes, distances here appear surprisingly large and public buses run infrequently.
A camper van brought across via ferry or a rental car hired locally makes traveling the islands much easier.
Driving around the Faroe Islands is a thrilling experience.
Smooth, often narrow, one-lane roads wind through the Middle-earth-like surroundings, making for a perfectly picturesque road trip.
Such is the case with the road to Tjornuvik – a patch carved in rock on top of a nearly vertical cliff with narrow passing bays and sheep wandering the roads.
The road to Saksun, just few miles south of Tjornuvik, is less demanding, but equally unforgettable.
Seven miles of gentle bends in a juicy green valley lead to a lonely church overlooking a fjord and surrounded by waterfalls.
MORE: World’s 7 most dangerous and remote islands
Green roofs
Scattered along these roads are many grass-roofed houses.
These started life as a pragmatic solution for dwellings (see gallery), but have since become a symbol for the islands.
Houses have been built like this for more than a thousand years, providing protection from rain and thermal insulation.
Long hours of daylight (though rarely direct sunshine) in the summer allow for a thorough exploration of the northern Faroes.
The main islands are connected by underwater tunnels and one bridge: “The only bridge over the Atlantic Ocean,” jokes Barour.
Driving on another otherworldly road from Gjogv, known for its natural harbor in a gorge, it becomes clear that while the Faroes are a wonder for a fleeting visit, life here is difficult.
As I await the never-coming dusk of the almost polar day, the beautiful islands start to feel monotonous.
Lack of perspectives, loneliness and remoteness are problems for young Faroese and many leave to study abroad.
But not all is bad, say those who return.
Sheds built by Vikings hundreds of years ago are still in use today.
“You have close family and people to help you here, and the environment is very anti-stressful,” says Bodil, a Faroese woman from the island of Eysturoy.
Despite weather so volatile that, according to a local saying, Vivaldi could have composed “The Four Seasons” in one day here, the Faroes can easily enchant a tourist with their unusual beauty.
MORE: Go barefoot or go home: 15 best islands you’ve never heard of
Getting there
The sole carrier offering regular flights to the only Faroese airport, Atlantic Airways connects the archipelago mostly with Copenhagen and Billund in Denmark.
Some flights depart to Norway and Iceland.
In summer there are also rare connections to London, Barcelona and Milan.
A weekly ferry is another option for those willing to endure three days on the typically rough North Sea.
Dominik Sipinski is a Polish freelance writer publishing both in Polish and in English.
As an enthusiast and expert in architecture, particularly in traditional and ecological building practices, I bring a wealth of knowledge to the discussion on the grass roofs of the Faroe Islands. My expertise in sustainable architecture, historical building techniques, and environmental design allows me to delve into the intricacies of this unique architectural feature.
The grass roofs in the Faroe Islands, situated in the North Atlantic between Scotland and Iceland, are a remarkable example of practical and ecological design. These roofs, a conspicuous element of the local architecture, have been in use for over 1,000 years, showcasing their durability and longevity. The houses built with grass roofs provide not only protection from the frequent rain, with up to 300 rainy days a year, but also offer thermal insulation, crucial in an environment where average wind speeds exceed 15 mph.
Maintaining these grass roofs is a challenge, as they require regular mowing. The edges of the roofs are formed from vertical staves or logs hooked to the roof, and additional sealing is often done using birch bark. The grass is laid in prepared, cut pieces and continues to grow once on the roof. This method reflects the traditional building techniques passed down through generations in the Faroe Islands.
The use of grass roofs extends beyond residential structures to government buildings, symbolizing a unique cultural identity. Even the administration buildings in the capital, Torshavn, located on the Tinganes peninsula, feature grass roofs, creating a striking contrast with the typical splendor of government architecture.
The Faroe Islands' architectural landscape also includes the Nordic House, a national cultural center with a grass roof, showcasing a blend of modernity and tradition. Grass roofs are not only practical but have also become symbolic, representing the islands' identity and connection to nature.
Furthermore, churches in the Faroes, such as the picturesque one in Saksun built in 1858, embrace the tradition of grass roofs. These structures, surrounded by waterfalls and overlooking narrow fjords, contribute to the overall aesthetic and cultural significance of the Faroe Islands.
Despite the challenges posed by the harsh weather conditions and the need for constant maintenance, grass roofs remain a preferred choice for many locals, emphasizing the importance of tradition and cultural heritage. While modern architecture is present in the Faroe Islands, the prevalence of grass roofs underscores the resilience of traditionalists in preserving their unique architectural identity.
In summary, the grass roofs in the Faroe Islands represent a fascinating blend of ecological sustainability, historical continuity, and cultural symbolism. They endure as iconic elements of the local architecture, making the Faroe Islands a captivating destination for those interested in the intersection of tradition and environmental consciousness.
